Boot Building Specs: Stitching - [Reddit Wiki]

Thread is available in three colors for stitching of the uppers: White, Black, and Brown. The choice of thread color is at the discretion of the bootmaker choosing what best coordinates with the leather selected. To specify your thread color used, use the additional customization options.

White

• Standard color offered.
• Is a regular polyester braid thread optimized for durability that has been used for almost 60 years.

Black

• Standard color offered. 
• Is a heat resistant, self-extinguishing Tehcnora® thread.
• Must be used on NFPA certified boots, may be used on any boots.

Brown

• Is a regular polyester braid thread.

Vertical stitching through the upper, midsole, slip sole if there is one, and outsole that outlines the footprint of the boot.

Double Row Sole Stitching 

Double row outsole stitchdown in our standard stitch down construction on boots. It provides a robust connection for durability and keeping elements out of the boot.

Single Row Sole Stitching

Single row outsole stitchdown comes standard on some models, like the Becca, and can be requested on other models as additional customization. It provides a sleeker design resulting in a smaller footprint of the overall boot.

Standard show stitching wraps 270° around the toe and is compatible with all lasts and soles. Nicks has been using this construction for 60 years and is what Nicks is most well known for. The insole and midsole are nailed together with construction made up of all leather elements.

• Some Wicket & Craig and Heritage leathers will not be stitched through on a lug sole.
• The customer is given the option for a stitched through sole, for higher durability, or non-stitched through sole, which is glued for easier resoles, on some combinations of soles and lasts.

365® Stitchdown Construction is built to be a good option 365 days a year, the stitching wraps 360° around the boot. It is also referred to as 365® Stitchdown Welt.

• To create a more water-resistant construction, the front 270° is a double row stitching, the remaining 90° is single row stitching. The leather flares out on the back 90° instead of tucking in to aid in water runoff. It uses more glues and stitching and fewer nails. Additionally, the midsole is rubber providing creating a more flexible boot compared to classic construction as well as additional water resistance. 
• Only compatible with a wedge sole on a moderate heelstack.
• Is our go-to option for Hiking, Hunting, and Tactical boots.
• Comes with a removeable leather insole that can be pulled out for drying or replacement. 

Read Also: Step Up Your Style With Custom Leather Boots

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