Boot Building Specs: Lasts - [Reddit Wiki]
Last
The last is a molded piece of hard plastic with a metal bottom that leather is stretched over to form the shape of the boot; it is how handmade boots are made. The last determines the feel of the inside of the boot and how it holds your foot determining the boot size, toe shape, and arch. Toe shapes and arch support cannot be interchanged between lasts.
Each style last comes in many sizes that coordinate with the final length and width of the boot to fit your specific foot.




Arch
- Classic, High Arch is the most arch support offered at Nicks.
- Moderate Arch is much less arch support, but many still consider it more than most shoes.
We also offer a zero-drop option with no arch; it is flat inside the shoe.
Arch support in a boot without a classic, high arch can be increased with either a built-in or removable Delta Arch insole.


Toe Height
- Standard toe height can be found in most of our lasts, it is a lower volume to than a Tall, Sprung toe.
- Tall, Sprung toe is offered on the 11067 last for those needing more vertical space in the toe box.


Toe Shape
- Standard toe shape is found on our most popular last, the 55, as well as the HNW. It is a clean, rounded toe offering a lot of room in the toe box. You will not be squishing the front of your foot in this shape.
- The Munson toe shape is inspired by the 1912 last designed to increase soldiers’ foot comfort. The toe is less tapered providing additional width for toe splay and additional comfort for wider feet. The Thurman lasts incorporate this shape exclusively for Nicks.
- Sprung toe shape is the same circumference as the Standard shape. It is a little narrower to achieve this due to the taller height of the boot, creating a slightly boxy shape. It does not sacrifice comfort; the boot remains snug on the rest of the foot.
- Semi-Pointed toe is a classic Western shape while still allowing space for toes to not be squished. It provides a sleek look even on a dress casual boot.
- Most Pointed is a very pointy toe, traditional on cowboy boots, with the most drastic taper offered at Nicks. Toe box comfort will be restricted with a toe this narrow.


Heelstack Height
Please see heel section for a description Nicks heelstack heights.
Interior Toe Structure
Please see toe section for description of Nicks interior toe structure options.
Exterior Toe
Please see toe section for description of Nicks interior toe structure options.
Heel Profile
Please see heel section for a description of heel profiles available at Nicks.
Sole
Please see outsole section for the sole options offered at Nicks.
Delta Arch Insole
A Delta Arch insert provides a little bit of lift and additional arch support in boots not built on a Classic, High Arch last. It brings a Moderate Arch very close to the high arch support found in our 55, Thurman55, 11607, 5332, and 5812 lasts.
If you like the feel of the 55, Thurman55, 11607, 5332, and 5812 lasts but want a wedge sole, unavailable on those lasts, an HNW or ThurmanNW paired with a built-in Delta Arch is your solution.
Available in full insole, half insole, and as a built-in option.


Extras
Book | The Soldier's Foot and the Military Shoe: A Handbook for and Noncommissioned Officers of the Line by E.Munson
Read Also: 8 Boots With Arch Support That Won’t Wreck Your Feet
Please visit our Reddit Wiki for further information and articles.
Please send suggestions or changes to media@nicksboots.com