Wiki
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March 19, 2025 93
Additional Customization
Additional Customization options that were frequently requested by special request are now available on Build Your Own models for those wanting them. There is an additional fee for all these choices.
Mismates
If your feet are different sizes and you require two different sized boots.
Mismates are not eligible for returns or refunds for circumstances other than factory defects.
Custom Uppers
We will contact you for additional upper measurements if you would like the uppers of your boots different than our standard sizing.
Boots with custom uppers are not eligible for returns or refunds for circumstances other than factory defects.
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Boot Height
Refers to the height of the shaft of the boot, measured from the top of the heelstack to the collar.
Boot height is a personal preference unless your profession requires a specific height. Taller boots protect from debris being walked through, but are heavier and can be harder to pull on.
Heights
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Edge
A piece of leather between the sole and the rest of the boot. The color of which is purely an aesthetic choice.
Edge Dressing
A water-soluble colored dye applied to the edge of the boots. It is available in black, brown, natural, and beeswax. Black, brown, and natural edges
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Hardware
The eyelets and/or hooks used to lace the boots.
Hardware Color
- Hardware color is purely an aesthetic choice.
- All hardware color options are made of solid brass and then plated over with different materials.
- Over time all color plating can start to wear out making most look close to
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Heelstack Height
Boot heels are made up of pieces of leather nailed atop one another with the sole on the bottom to form the heelstack. See the last section for heelstack height compatibility.
Moderate
- A standard height offering comprised of 3-4 leather pieces stacked in the heel.
- 3/8” – ½” leather stack, plus the sole.
- Standard on HNW and ThurmanNW lasts.
- While a classic, high arch last can sometimes take a moderate heelstack, the classic is recommended because of boot balance.
Classic
- A standard height offering comprised of 4-5 leather pieces stacked in the heel.
- 5/8” – 3/4” leather stack, plus the sole.
- Most common,
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Insulation
One of the key features that sets our boots apart is our innovative Polar-XP insulation technology. Polarthin has been specifically engineered for use in performance clothing and cryogenic applications. This feat of scientific innovation does not require loft to insulate and maintain thermal insulation even when compressed to thinner than 1mm thick!
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Kiltie
A kiltie, also known as a false tongue, is worn over the actual softer, thinner tongue of a boot to protect it from punctures and abrasions. A kiltie also protects the tongue from wear caused by lacing the boots and distributes lace pressure across the top of the foot when laced tight. The kiltie is held in place by the laces so it can be replaced and comes in three styles.
Leather
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Last
The last is a molded piece of hard plastic with a metal bottom that leather is stretched over to form the shape of the boot; it is how handmade boots are made. The last determines the feel of the inside of the boot and how it holds your foot determining the boot size, toe shape, and arch. Toe shapes and arch support cannot be interchanged between lasts.
Each style last comes in many sizes that coordinate with the final length and width of the boot to fit your specific foot.
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Our leather selection rotates; please see our leather catalogue for current offerings.
Nicks Leather Styles
Nicks uses leather thicker than most commercial leathers used. Our boot leathers are between 6–8oz with each ounce of leather translating to roughly 0.4mm thickness. While it means that a pair of Nicks boots will take longer to break it, it also means that they can last a lifetime when properly maintained. Each pair of Nicks Handmade Boots is constructed out of the same hide. While different drums of the same color may vary slightly due to the tanning process, each boot will stay true to its color. Nicks offers a variety of leather options, some exclusive to us, others not.
Nicks offers a variety of leathers, including exclusive options, and we are always looking for more interesting options
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Lineman Shank
A Lineman shank is an additional flat piece of leather added to the midsole designed to support the arch, or shank, area of the boot. It does not replace the normal shank, the internals of the boot are otherwise the same.
This secondary half-length midsole gets glued between the midsole and slip sole then sanded flat. The Lineman Shank flattens out the shank area providing additional support for Lineman, Arborists, and those spending extended time on hooks, gaffs, and ladders to avid foot fatigue.
A Lineman Shank is not suggested for people who are looking to make the boot more durable as it may make it too stiff to break in. It is cited as an additional customization option regretted for those not needing them for climbing purposes.
A Lineman Shank is available on BuilderPro