In the world of footwear manufacturing, the last is a fundamental tool that shapes the final form and fit of a shoe or boot. While often overlooked by consumers, the design of the last has a profound impact on comfort, style, and functionality. The history of boot lasts is a fascinating journey that reflects not only changes in fashion and technology but also the evolving needs and preferences of wearers over centuries.
Lasting is the process of stretching, shaping, gluing, and nailing the boot leather around a shoe last. The shoe last is a mold that represents the shape and size of your foot for the construction of the boots. Once the boots are completed, the last is removed and the boots are ready to be worn. Historically, shoe-lasts were carved from hardwoods, most often beech wood. However, modern shoe lasts are made with high-density plastic or cast aluminum. At Nicks, we use a High-Density Plastic hinged last, with a steel plate attached to the bottom.
Now that you know about the process, lets walk through the different lasts that we offer here at Nicks.
55 Last
The 55 last features a contoured footbed and arch support to distribute weight evenly and reduce strain on the feet and back. The 55 last comes with our standard round toe box and classic arch support.
HNW Last
The HNW last is designed to cater to a wide range of individuals and is a great choice for someone who prefers minimal arch support. The HNW last has a moderate arch support and standard round toe box. The HNW last cannot be paired with our classic heel stack.
11067 Last
The 11067 last features a contoured footbed and arch support to distribute weight evenly and reduce strain on the feet and back. The 11067 last comes with a sprung toe box allowing for more toe flare.
Thurman55 (T55) Last
Inspired by the iconic Munson last that was introduced during WW2 to offer a more natural foot splay for military boots. During WW2, military boots were designed to accommodate the natural toe splay of soldiers for maximum comfort and performance in the field. The toe splay refers to the natural spreading of the toes when weight is distributed evenly across the foot. The Thurman55 last pairs the wide toe box and natural toe splay with the classic arch support found on our 55 last.
ThurmanNW (TNW) Last
Inspired by the iconic Munson last that was introduced during WW2 to offer a more natural foot splay for military boots. During WW2, military boots were designed to accommodate the natural toe splay of soldiers for maximum comfort and performance in the field. The toe splay refers to the natural spreading of the toes when weight is distributed evenly across the foot. The ThurmanNW last comes with a wider toe box and moderate arch support.
Thurman-Zero Drop
Our first-ever Zero Drop last. The Thurman-ZD last provides an anatomical foot shape with the more tactile feel of the zero drop allowing for more stability on the ground. The Thurman-ZD last pairs the wider toe box of the Thurmans with a flat arch.
5332 Last
Western boots with semi-pointed toes are favored for their practicality, offering a streamlined design that doesn't compromise on functionality. The slightly tapered toe allows for easier slide into stirrups or other equipment, making them well-suited for equestrian activities and outdoor work. The 5332 last is featured on our classic packer and is only available on some of our western boot models. The 5332 last features the a semi pointed toe and a high arch.
5812 Last
Rooted in American frontier heritage, the pointed toe shape pays homage to the traditions of the Wild West while maintaining a timeless appeal. The pointed toe features a distinctively tapered front that elongates the foot and creates a sleek silhouette. The 5812 last features our pointed toe, high arch, and is available on some of our western boot models.
1925 Last
The 1925 last has a sleek almond toe profile and a moderate arch profile built as a more refined dress last option. Originally designed for the Brandle line, this 1925 dress last is now available to Nicks Boots.
When switching between different lasts for Nicks Boots, you generally do not need a different size. All Nicks boot lasts are designed to fit consistently, ensuring that you can maintain the same size across various styles. While each last offers unique benefits, such as different toe shapes or specific design features, they should all provide a uniform fit. For instance, pointed toe boots should fit the same as standard round toe boots, provided they are sized correctly. To ensure the best fit, aim for about an inch of space from your toe to the end of the boot. This consistency in sizing allows you to enjoy the diverse styles and functionalities of Nicks Boots without the hassle of resizing.
